When we left, there was gunfire everywhere... today, we can smell peace’

He was just 19 years old when he crossed over to Pakistan-occupied-Kashmir (PoK) for arms training, at a time when militancy was at its peak in the Valley. Twenty-two years later, Ashraf Gilkar, accompanied by his wife and four children, has made his way home — one of the 40 former “militants” who have reportedly returned to Kashmir, via Nepal, since January this year.

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