Promise land

There are at least three carts lined up near the entrance to Gandhi Bazaar selling plates of pineapple chaat — pineapple slices sprinkled with masala — for Rs 10. The market is crowded. You pass piles of clothes for sale and shops where you can download Hindi or Bengali tracks for your mobile phone before you enter a small square, in the middle of which a few men sit behind stacks of bidi packets. It’s mostly Babu Bidi, a salesman in white kurta-pajama will inform you, in case you are unable to read the brand name printed in Bengali.

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