011-Kashmir in the winter is packed with tourists. More than 1.5 million visited last year, a record. But have things really changed there? Here’s a look at the status through Kashmir’s Urdu newspapers. There are over 20 Urdu dailies published from Srinagar, which is more than in the rest of India and more even than in Pakistan. One reason for the enthusiasm is the money that comes easily to the papers from the government. Both the Centre and the state governments struggle to put their message out in a hostile environment, and must pay to occasionally have the press on their side.